Help & Frequently Asked Questions

It’s pretty easy! You must contact me by phone so I can get all the particulars of what we are building. I want to get to know you and have a conversation about where you have been and what your goals are so we can help the best. Not all engine builds are the same. I need information!
After I agree to build or rebuild your engine I will need a $500 deposit for a NEW Build Paypal:Motorcitymusclecar@gmail.com Include your phone number so I can text and confirm. I will then put your engine in line to be built (30-40) days later.

We are typically 30-40 working days out on new builds. Rebuilds are the same, but if it is one of our existing engines it can take priority. To get on the list it takes a phone call to 586 604 3810. Because we are building for your specific needs, you will be asked: What kind of engine? What class do you race?, Where do you race? as well as many other questions.

We do not typically have engines ready to go because there are so many variables.

We build engines in groups. We start building once I get enough orders for the same type of engine. Building in groups allows us to compare manufacturing changes and speeds up the process to get you the best engine available.

All it takes is a phone call or a message. Please include your contact info and specifics about class, driver info and where you run.

YES! If they were fast, they will be faster - we leave nothing on the table, and I don’t care who you are. You get it all from us from the start!

We also work on most single cylinder race engines. Honda quarter midget 120UT3, Honda 160, Briggs Animal/206 and Briggs World Formula. We do many kart engines and mini wedge engines as well - Predators and Briggs for both gas and alcohol. We don’t work on Honda UT2 or UT1’s. (They can’t beat the newer UT3, I won’t work on an engine unless we can win with it)

Yes - we rebuild our engines and other builder’s engines, new or used.
To ship it, drain all the fluids and include the complete engine, carb, throttle linkage, and slide, everything to run it on the dyno stand.
We don't need the gear hub or clutch, or the engine mounting plate or the exhaust pipe.
If you have a Honda engine, you should pop off the spark plug plastic cap off the spark plug. (they get damaged)
Use plenty of packing material or foam.
Make sure to include your name, phone number and return address and any special instructions or problems you know of.
Your engine will come back like brand new; we will remove all paint markings, grease and oil and replace any broken or destroyed part. The cleaner you send it, the less it will cost. Brake clean will take off most of the grease and oil.
The more you care the more we care.
Send to John Kryta, Krybaby Performance,15066 technology Drive,Shelby, Twp, MI 48315 or call 586 604 3810

Prices vary on the type of engine we are building, and the engine and parts can vary daily. After we talk we will give you a solid number and we will begin the process.
We are not a puppy mill of engines! We spend the time it takes to make the engine the best it can be. We do not have discount engines or discount rates.
Rebuild services are $65 an hour and can take 4-7 hours, plus any parts, depending on many factors. If we have to clean your filthy engine it takes time. If another builder did nothing, it takes time. If the engine is blown up or very old it may require parts. If it is clean and newer it is in and out fast. Rebuilding an old worn-out engine is not saving you money vs building new.

Yes, we build for Canadian customers, but we can not ship to Canada. You must have a USA shipping address or a broker for us to ship to.
For Briggs Lo206 customers; In most cases you’re required to run the maple leaf block (leaf stamped in the base of the block with a big C) Your rules vary slightly, check with the track you run at.
I can not get Canada or Maple leaf blocks in the United States so you would have to locate the engine and get it to me.
For quarter midget customers it is the same engine as run in the United States.
All prices are in U.S. Dollars.

We work on most 4 stroke single cylinder engines for Karts 206, Quarter Midget, Sprint Cars, Champ Karts & Mini Wedge, with an occasional 120 Snowmobile.

These engines include Honda 120, Honda 160, Briggs Animal, Lo206, World formula and Predator 212 engines.

We also do outlaw engines and special builds by request only.

We do not work on 2 stroke engines. We usually do not work on select alcohol engines, as they have no bearing halves at the rod to crank connection and do not last many races.

We do not work on clone or 160 clone engines.

We love a challenge, so if you have something interesting give me a call - I can't say we will work on it but you never know.

Our engines are better because we care. We are not pumping out engines and they are not all the same. Each engine takes about one day of time to complete. We give you everything we have. No customer gets more than any other customer because all customers get it all. We weigh and measure everything and adjust to the max rules in the rule book leaving nothing on the table.

We don't build cookie cutter engines they are built for the specific class or type of car or track.

We provide you spec sheets telling you every aspect of the engine and what was done. We are not afraid to show our work because we did all the work.

We have been in most of the other builders’ engines, only I know who does the work and it’s not many.

The other builders complain about us because we am making them work!

Engine manufacturers are in the business of selling engines and they make improvements all the time as they come out with new versions. The latest versions are almost always better than the old version.

We have noticed with many brand engines the later version will have heavier parts or better air flow or a change in the head or the cam shaft. All these changes are to improve performance and efficiency.
BUT - if you have a rocket engine already, we can make it better. If you have a mid-pack turd, we can also make it better but it most likely will not be a first place engine. Not all engines are made up of the same parts, but our engineering will be the same on every one we build.
If a lo206 had a black seal its 7 years old and most likely has tons of laps on it. Sealed blocks can’t get new rings and are just worn out. I can't tell you how worn out it is without seeing it. We have orange seal engines that have been run for 4 seasons that are fine, but the oil has been changed every race day. Lots of variables.

All Briggs engines have a rev limiter. The 206 is 6050 +/- So you run it to 6050 hitting the limit at the end of the long straight. But if you are restricted - red you may want to lower the rpm a bit since the engine does not get enough air.

You should be gearing for the drop and the max rpm. Usually, peak performance is 500 rpm less than max rpm this is your drop. If your drop is 500 or your max would be 6050, if your drop is 800 your max should be 5750. You gear for drop and max rpm. If you are flat footing it - it is way easier to adjust for the drop. If you are lifting it is much harder to adjust (stop Lifting and adjust the chassis or your driving)

General RPM Ranges
Max Rpm Honda 120 - Red 4800, Blue/jr 5500, Senior 5850, Heavy 5850-5950
The UT3 engine likes lower rpm than the UT2 version.
Max Rpm Honda 160 - (160 light 5950, heavy 6000)
Max Rpm Briggs Animal JR 5500, Senior/unr 6050 Rev Limiter
Max Rpm Briggs Lo206 Black & Gold & Green Slide 6050 Rev Limiter
Anything below green slide may like a slightly lower rpm as the air flow is restricted.
Max Rpm Briggs World Formula 7100 Rev Limiter
Max Rpm Briggs Modified World Formula 8500 Rev Limiter 10,000

Yes, we provide you with all the specs and technical information for your engine. There will be a cam profile page and other sheets with all the weights and measurements of your individual engine. There will be no mystery of what was done, because it will all be done and you can check it. These numbers and weights will be complaint to all governing body rule books and are absolute. We will be very close on these numbers, but will always leave something for the tech inspector and will never be over.

We are always up to date on the rule book and know what every word and number means.

While most rules change yearly, some engines are not sent back for updates and change hands all the time with no idea of the changes. Each of our engines are stamped with a date and are completely legal to the day it was built.

The most important maintenance item is to change the oil often and use the proper Amsoil/Briggs 4t or Thor Oil to extend the life of your engine. Oil should be changed every race day or race weekend when the engine is hot. There is no oil filter and when oil cools it leaves the deposits on the bottom of the block.

The oil should come out as clean as it went in. If it is clean you can wait longer. If it is black you are not changing enough. Oil is cheap, Engines are expensive.

Spark plugs last a very long time - a full season or more. If black clean with brake clean or wipe off - if super black you are running too rich. Plugs tell you how you are running - check often.

Valve Springs on Briggs engines, change only on rebuilds or longer. For Honda engines 6-7 races or mid-season.

Your engine will need to be rebuilt at some point. After a season or more you will loose 2 tenths in lap time. The valve job will be going away, as carbon gets beat into the seats and the valves pound away they will start to leak. If you are capable of lapping valves mid-season this will keep you running fresh. If you keep losing power, you will eventually need a valve maintenance, generally after 25 or more races.

Drain your fuel if the car is going to sit for long periods of time. All float bowls have a drain and it takes seconds to do.

These engines are designed to run forever on your lawn mower but your race engine is built for peak performance and wears quickly.